Should Lolita Outfits Be Stereotyped As Odd Costumes? Absolutely Not
Are you a lover or hater of Lolita fashion or are you completely unaware of it? Before we go into the unique nature of this subculture, let’s introduce what it is. Originating in Japan in the 70s, the Victorian-styled street fashion gained momentum in the 80s and 90s. The word ‘Lolita’ is inspired by the pre-adolescent heroine of Vladimir Nabokov’s novel of the same name. She is seen as a nymphet by the older male narrator. Lolita fashion also tries to create an adorable, child-like look but is in no way connected to the premise of the novel. Decorated with lace, ribbons, flounces and flared sleeves, this style is highly inspired by Victorian and Rococo dresses. Lolita has also combined itself with other subcultures like Goth, Manga, and Anime to produce more styles.
There is nothing odd about Lolita costumes.
Lolita outfits and shoes are intricately detailed and conspicuous in their designs and colors. Because of this, they look distinctly different and always stand out of the crowd. As a result, a lot of people refer to this fashion as odd costumes in a derogatory manner. But let me tell you that there is nothing odd about Lolita fashion. It is a beautiful subculture that has thrived on the streets of Japan for decades. It is highly visible in anime, manga and all other Japanese art forms. Calling them odd costumes would be equating them with poorly planned Halloween costumes or cheap Cosplay items. This is not only very disrespectful towards a cultural movement thriving in Japan but towards fashion in general. Because Lolita is taking over catwalks globally and calling it odd or weird will only show your ignorance of fashion trends.
In 2009, Misako Aoki, a Lolita fashion model was appointed as Japan’s ambassador of pop culture. In 2012, Frill by Affrilliation, a Lolita-only convention took place for the first time in Atlanta, U.S. Similar such events are being held around the world for Lolitas and Lolita designer labels. In 2013, the Japan Lolita Association was established by Omula Fashion Design College in Fukuoka to encourage academic study of the Lolita subculture. In 2016, the spring/summer edition of the New York Fashion Week saw authentic Lolita outfits for the first time. During NYFW 2017, the runway saw models strutting the catwalk in knee-length petticoats, ruffles, and Victorian bodices.
Fashion recycles stylistic elements from the old to create the novel. Similarly, Lolita fashion takes inspiration from styles popular in European history and the hyperbolic cuteness associated with bisque dolls. It is then combined with modern Japanese pop culture and the concept of kawaii to create a unique visual experience. Therefore, Lolita is a diverse subculture that has both a rich history and a space for individual agency. There is nothing cheap or bizarre about it.
Now, let’s look at some styles inspired by the Lolita designs displayed by China Fashion Collective at New York Fashion Week.
This is a Magic Tea Party sleeveless dress in white and blue. You can pair this with a long-sleeved jacket with front-slit and white pointy toes to create the runway look. Find the dress here.
Lolita bridal fashion has been dominating the catwalks for a while. Dress up in a classic Lolita wedding dress adorned with white lace, frills, and red bows. If you want to be a Lolita bride, get the outfit here.
The Lolita Aesthetic is different yet beautiful.
Beauty is a subjective concept and what is considered beautiful varies from person to person. A woman’s individual style can be feminine, athletic, emo, hipster, preppy, etc. depending on what she finds attractive. The Lolita aesthetic whether gothic, sweet or classic, looks equally beautiful on women. It might seem different to some people, especially outside Japan, but there is nothing distasteful about it. Those who feel happy and cheerful in bright Lolita outfits wouldn’t feel comfortable wearing jeans and a tee. Lolita fashion might not be for you but always remember, ‘to each his own’.
What is considered cute or attractive in Lolita fashion is obviously different from mainstream tastes and trends. Lolita is about fierce self-expression in spectacular, flamboyant ways without caring about the fashion rules set by society. It’s about dressing for yourself, in your own terms, and not for others. The aesthetic principles of Lolita highlight individualism and independence and seek to infuse these values among its wearers. Once you stop compromising and defining yourself by what others believe, you can feel a lot more powerful.
There are multiple aesthetically diverse trends within the world of Lolita fashion. The most significant of these are Gothic Lolita (Kuro-Loli), Sweet Lolita (Ama-Loli) and Classic Lolita (Kurashikku-Lolita).
Gothic Lolita
The most popular is the Gothic inspired sub-style featuring dark clothing, dark lipstick and smoky eyes. Common accessories include gothic motifs, stockings or knee-highs in dark colors and lace chokers. Find the outfit here.
Sweet Lolita
This sub-style is the most child-like in appearance with pastel colors, ruffles and bows. Sweet Lolita places more importance on looking cute and girly. Animal and heart prints, pastel colored hair and neutral makeup completes the look. Find the dress here.
Classic Lolita
More mature in colors and styles, Classic Lolita is usually historically inspired. Find this beautiful Victorian style Classic Lolita dress here.
The dialectical attitude towards beauty.
The Western audience has often criticized Lolita fashion for infantilizing women. Some see it as exclusively pleasing the objectifying and pedophilic male gaze and some see it as fetishist.
While many Japanese Lolitas aren’t aware of the Nabokov novel at all, most western Lolitas don’t associate sexual connotations with this subculture. Nabokov’s Lolita is narrated by Humbert who sexualizes Dolores. Lolita fashion on the other hand, exists in a female domain far removed from cis-male influence. In fashion, Lolita is empowered and has her own agency. It is modest and reminds a woman of her girlhood days and her precious memories of growing up. We should respect it.